Keeping It Surreal in "The House Dali Built"

Perhaps His Most Famous Image -- Warped Time-- Dali was Intensely
 Interested in Einstein's Theory of Time, the Atomic Age, and Anything
Dealing with Dreams or Sigmund Freud
(All Photos Taken by Drew Smith)

The first rule of "The House Dali Built" is "Break All the Rules." There is a warning outside the museum of the famous Surrealist, Salvador Dali: "Do Not Attempt to Tour the Museum With a Prefigured Plan, Dali Would Not Approve!" By the time you scroll to the bottom of this blog post, about the time you see the life-size "Apartment of Mae West", you will understand. This is also his final resting place.

Welcome to the "Theater Museum of Salvador Dali," the most visited place in the Catalonia Region of Spain, despite the fact it is located in a relatively obscure place --the small village of Figueres -- halfway up the Mediterranean coast between Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, and the French border.

The Other Side of the Dali Museum & Theater at Night (He Had a Thing for Eggs)

So, why this strange warning on the brochure and signs for our visit to the "Teatre Museu Dali"? Mr. Dali personally could not condone something so confining as a pre-planned route, or map, with a disciplined and orderly approach to viewing his art.

Pink Blob: Notice the Hand Coming Out of the Top

You see, why on earth would someone who fought order, structure and boundaries with his life's work want to make the experience of viewing that work the very opposite experience... especially when so often this artist tries to make you an active part of his canvas?

Salvadore and Gala's Bed (Notice the Skeleton)

If you have ever gotten turned around in an art gallery, as I have, and had to stare at the color-coded crazy brochure to figure out where you are, then you will find this place a welcome relief.

Indeed, Salvador Dali -- another "lost generation" member like Hemingway -- uses the entire theater-museum as his canvas. It is easily the most remarkable and unforgettable art exhibit I have ever witnessed, and may ever again...  Hence the overwhelming popularity.

Dali was born here in Figueres, christened in the ancient church just steps away, and attended the theater and later movies in this building as a young boy. It was also in the lobby of the original theater that he first exhibited his early works of art to the public.

During the Spanish Civil War, in the 1930s, the forces of Franco bombed the theater until it was but a shell. In later years, when an effort began to save the theater from demolishing, Dali offered to make this theater the museum of his life's work... and what a remarkable life and work it was.

This is a Good View of the Middle of the Museum,
Which Had Been Bombed Out in the Spanish Civil War

Dali said that one reason he picked this as the spot to exhibit his life's work is because he thought it was appropriate to use a theater, since his work and he were very "theatrical" in nature. Indeed, Dali was a master at using modern communication to build his image, and was somewhat jealous of the fame received by his friend and sometimes-rival just down the road, Pablo Picasso.

The Painting of Lincoln in the Background?
Up Close It is a Painting of a Nude Woman... Really

We had left Barcelona by rental car, early that morning, with me behind the wheel. This gave Drew lots of fun at my expense, comparing me to Chevy Chase in the Grizwald "European Vacation" movies.

Dad and Me Walking the Streets of Figueres

Looking at Dad's tourist guide, I noticed that Dali's town and museum were not far from our planned route to France. We had to stop.

After parking in a typical Spanish parking garage (no SUVs need even try, I might add, they are so small), we walked across the street to this remarkable building and town center.

A Long Line Awaited Us at the Most
Popular Tourist
Attraction in Catalonia

We immediately saw the line that was at least 50 yards long. This was evidence to me that we MUST SEE this museum. It was the longest line of any I would see in Barcelona or throughout my tour of Spain.

Plenty of People Were On Hand
to Entertain Us as We Waited In Line

While we were waiting, we took turns visiting the town church, where you could see the famous panorama of the "Holy Land" and see the baptismal font where the baby Dali was christened. I am not sure, but I do not think he had his trademark mustache at that point.

Eventually, we made it inside. What can I say.... it lived up to the hype. We were not disappointed. Dali lived most of his days not too far away, in a small fishing village on the Mediterranean. I would have loved to visit his home, his art studios, and the rest that are all still exactly like there were when he died.

We all agreed that the detour was a good idea, and well worth the time. The Dali Museum was a visual feast. If you are ever in the vicinity, it is worth a day trip to see, or I should say experience this place.

Dad In Front of Dali's Car -- Which Has A Manikin Inside at the Wheel,
a Living Garden and a Watering System 

By the way, these photographs are another example of Dali's "no rules" legacy for his museum. Every other art gallery I have been in I could not take photographs. In Dali's house such a thing is unthinkable... why you are as much a part of the show as he, don't you see. Not allowed to take pictures? Ridiculous! Drew could take pictures until his heart's content, with no pesky guard scorning him.

Dali also had a life-long love affair with his wife Gala, and she was the subject of many of his paintings throughout the gallery.

Portrait of the Love and the Muse of His Life -- Dali's Wife Gala
(Learn More at http://www.salvador-dali.org/dali/en_biografia-gala.html)

Dali's Famous Appartment "Me West" -- This is Furniture in a
Room About 750 square feet

You Walk Up a Ladder and look through a Viewer and... It is Mae West
Yep, Mae West! (For Fun, Zoom This Picture as Large as You Can
 to see the People in Line on the Right and Coming in the "apartment" on the Left)

The Cryp 

Perhaps the most real part of this museum is the crypt where Dali is buried, underneath where the original stage for the theater once existed. In the end, surrounded by his masterpieces, it seems fitting that this theatrical showman, this rule breaker, this amazing artist, should be buried in this place for eternity.

If you have read this far, I strongly recommend you view the entire collection with explanations of his art found at this website:http://www.salvador-dali.org/dali/coleccio/en_50obres.html

One of the most interesting pieces on Dali, by the way, is an old black and white masterpiece, discussed here:http://www.closeupfilmcentre.com/vertigo_magazine/issue-14-december-2007/arden-and-dali-loiter-in-the-streets/

My next post is from France: "La Tour de Jour: My Day at the 100th Anniversary of the Tour de France." Until then.... stay surreal!